The Lyskamm or Liskamm (4527m) and its unusual shape can fascinate. It is a long ridge that covers almost 5 km and unites – from east to west – the Colle del Lys and Col di Felik. The mountain is situated on the border between Switzerland and Italy. Would you like to climb the peak? Contact us - we can arrange it for you!
The south side of the Lyskamm, rocky and salt from the Lys glacier, differs from the north side that is in fact a wall of ice – from the Grenz Glacier to about 1000 m. It has two peaks: the East (4527m) and West (4481m).
First ascent
In 1861 the eastern, and highest, peak was reached by 6 Swiss mountain guides and 8 English climbers. They were led by J.F. Hardy. Leslie Stephen, Edward Buxton, Jakob Anderegg, and Franz Biener climbed the ridge itself, and both peaks three years later.
Name
“Lyskamm” comes from the name of the 40-km-long river, the Lys that starts at one of Lyskamm glaciers. Freiherr (Baron) Ludwig von Welden suggested the name of the mountain that until the 1940s had not haven its own. Lyskamm was called small Monte Rosa or Rosenhorn.
“Silberbast” is another name that is sometimes used even today. “Silber” means silver and “bast” designates the wooden pack-saddle that pack-mules carried when transporting goods.
Nature
The spectacular ridge that makes the Lyskamm peak so characteristic, has built its reputation as a “men-eater”. It is due to many snow cornices on the edge of the ridge. It is a cause of frequent avalanches. In the 19th centuries people were not aware of that danger. Rope teams – often too have and large – caused avalanches and many climbers died during their attempts to reach the peak.
The view from the Lyskamm top is breathtaking heading in all directions: Nordend, Dufour, Zumstein, Gnifetti, Parrot, Ludwigshohe, Black Horn, Pyramid Vincent, Castor, up to the Matterhorn , Swiss Alps, Mont Blanc.