Pollux (4092m) or Polluce is the lower peak of two. From its higher, twin peak, Castor (4228m) is separated by a pass, the Passo di Verra, at 3845m. Polluce is located on the border between Valais, Switzerland and the Aosta Valley. Would you like to climb the peak? Contact us - we can arrange it for you!
It is one of the classic four-thousanders to climb between Matterhorn and Monte Rosa. Although Pollux is lower than Castor it is more demanding while climbing. Ascents are usually made from the Rifugio Ottorino Mezzalama (3036m) or the Monte Rosa hut (2795m). In the high season in July or August 10-30 climbers will reach the peak on a normal climbing day.
First ascent
On the 1st August 1864 Jules Jacot from Geneva and his guides, Josef-Marie Perren and Peter Taugwalder climbed Pollux as the first alpinists in history.They went through Schwartztor (Black Gate).
The more difficult north ridge was first climbed by Captain John Percy Farrar (a president of the Alpine Club) and Wylie Lloyd with guide Josef Pollinger on the 18th August 1893.
The first winter ascent took place in 1913 and was done by Dr Alfred von Martin and Karl Planck.
Name
Twin peaks are sometimes called Gemini after famous twins from Roman mythology.
Nature
The Pollux peak is smaller than Castor, but even though it offers spectacular views from the top and even more challenges during climbing. From the top you can admire the Castor peak and the Black Rock.